When Restaurants Play Hard to Get
By Masha Rumer

Masha
When supply is limited yet the demand is high, the sellers can jack up the price all they want and people pay up. Particularly if there’s no other choice.
But things get tricky when there’s a myriad of choices, as, for instance, with restaurants in San Francisco. In the Mission District, the selection of cuisines, price ranges, and methods of preparation is endless. In one section of Valencia Street, the Mission’s arterial thoroughfare, there are three Indian restaurants within one block from each other. Two Japanese eateries with an oddly identical name, We Be Sushi, bide time just six blocks apart. A swarm of coffee shops and taquerias coexist peaceably side by side.
How do restaurants in this crowded market stay competitive? The logical explanation is they try harder and do more. More choices on the menu. More delicious fare. More bang for the buck. More smiling staff (as much as possible for a hipster). Hire a belly dancer. Put a sitar player in the window to help sell palak paneer, as they do in New York’s Little India. Doing more will attract more customers, right?
Wrong. Acting desperate never really helped anybody, and the Mission eateries are no exception. Many local restaurants are embracing an entirely different model to stay in business: offer less. Become less conspicuous. Cut the hours of operation. Be less available. Cram all the equipment, produce, chefs and customers into a tiny room and watch people go bananas with hunger and relentless enthusiasm. Continue Reading »